Puran Dhaka’s Iftar

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Sheikh Arif Bulbon :
Ramzan marks the month of fasting that is observed by 90 per cent of the 160 million people in Bangladesh. The most notable change in the streets can be seen in the changing shopping habits of the people! Even though restaurants are closed during the day, they sell just as much food serving Iftar (breaking of the fast goodies!) and some even stay open for Sehri (the meal before dawn).
The goodies of Iftar in Bangladesh and in Puran (old) Dhaka (older historical part of the capital) are mostly lentil-based batter, grilled or fried.
The experience of simply being in Puran Dhaka before the breaking of the fast stimulates all your senses! And here is how.
Soaking in the atmosphere
The Chawk Bazaar throbs with bustling sound human multitudes and the street venders screaming out slogans on top of their voices, Boro baper polai khai, thonga bhoira loiya jai (the big-shot’s son could buy a full packet and eat it). Boro Baaper Pola is a mixture of chicken, chick-peas, puffed-rice etc that suits the Bengali taste.
The air is redolent with strong aroma of piled up heaps of iftar delicacies laid out on large trays and bamboo-baskets. Contd on page 2
The Chawk Bazaar is an age-old place for traditional iftar market.
The entire span of road in front of Chawk Bazaar Shahi Mashjid becomes a grand fair of palpitating buyers oscillating between open-air stalls that stretch out in every corner of the street.
Ancient pride
The Chawk Bazaar of Puran Dhaka is renowned for its 400 years of traditional iftar bazaar and heaven for meat-lovers!
A steaming hot plate of Haleem or a lofty amount of Mutton Biryani are the most enticing delicacies anyone could ask for. Almost all the kiosks sell Haleem, chicken and mutton kebabs and Kheema and Dum Biryani to ravenous diners but Mohammed Rafique, son of Fakruddin Munshi, can’t help but boast about his Hyderabadi roots as he dishes out these meaty Biryani and Haleem. The recipe has been passed down from one generation to the next and the taste has been the same for centuries.
Sweetness for the sweetheart
Jilapi! The jilapi origins in Iran they call it Zoolbia. There is a rallying cry among the street hawkers, ‘sweetness for the sweetheart,’ as though the jilapi is some sort of a love portion. But definitely a bite of this sugar-syrup coated delicacy would feel ones heart with sweetness.
Kindling Kebabs
Shammi Kebab! Shuti Kebab! Reshmi Kebab! Shikh kebab! Chicken Tikka! Needless to say, the names are sufficient to bring water in the mouth. The street becomes a carnival, the sizzling sound of the red hot charcoal fire is like a symphony to the ears and pleasure to the eyes.
Malai Tea- Puran Dhaka style
The Malai-tea brings the soul back into the body. The Chawkbazar tea has encapsulating the flamboyant mood of the old part of town. It’s not just any tea but tea with thick cream floated on top, it looks like a iceberg on the murky water of Buriganga river, a definite treat to the eyes.
Carnival of chaos
The Chawk Bazaar hosts the most eventful alfresco Iftar feast experience in the city. The fiesta goes on till 5:00am in the morning. The taste may lasts few moments on the lips but the experience last forever in the hearts. n
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