Traditional foods at Old Dhaka

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Md Walid Khan :
The foundation of Dhaka was started on the bank of the Buriganga River. That’s why most of the historical monuments like Ahsan Monjil, Ruplal House, Lal Kuhthi, Lal Bagh Fort, were build just beside the river. For this; food habit of the people in this area were largely influenced by Nawab and Jaminder family, cooking feature, geography, climate, resource and lifestyle. Each food shops have their own unique recipe and cooking style. Development of the some of the recipe takes decades or near about century. Here food is very serious business and raise to the level of art form. The cook works in this shop keep their recipe a close guarded secret. Some recipes were passed on to their son and the rest were lost forever. With hundred of years’ development, old Dhaka has its own unique dinning culture and etiquette, which everyone may find quite different from other portion of the country.
Just few hours Rickshaw trip can touch most of the traditional and appetizing food of old Dhaka. It is convenient to start from Star Hotel at Thatari Bazar near Gulisthan, which one is the largest and busy restaurant of old Dhaka. We can get many types of kebabs like shish kebab, tandoori chicken, whole lamb kebab, lamb roast, whole chicken, grilled chicken and dessert in this restaurant. From Thatari Bazar rickshaw puller will not take more than Tk 30 to bring Roth Khola more, where 90 years ago a milkmaid started selling liquid milk. Without any brand name his grandson still selling milk from 5:00pm to 11:30pm at Tk 30 per glass. After taking a glass of pure milk, it is wise decision not take any rickshaw. Because most of the food shop situated in a walking distance from Roth Khola more. It’s about 5 minutes walk to Ray Shaheb Bazar More, where placed Cafe Yousuf, Al Islam and one of the famous juice shop Beauty Lachchhi. After liberation war Café Yousuf and Al Islam were established as the modern restaurants in Dhaka. Since then these shops expand reputation not only for Bengali food but also for special breakfast and supper. On the other hand, Beauty Lachchhi shop selling its delicious Lachchhi, Faluda and lemon drinks for 90 years.
Some kinds of ritual foods like luchi, vaji, daal, different kinds of kebab and biriany are now-a-days include into daily food habit of old Dhaka inhabitants. Two shops at Banglabazar more Chowrongi and Cafe Corner serves these kinds of foods for 80 years. Whereas Chowrongi is renowned for its porota and dal; Cafe Corner for its unique cram chop, fish fry, cutlet, etc.
At Patuatuli, Shahi Delhi Restaurant is not only prominent for its different kinds of mouthwatering sweet halua as well luchi, dal, nehari and other breakfast items. One of the oldest biryani bazars located just 5 minutes walking distance from Shahi Delhi Restaurant at Kotwali Police Station crossing. Since morning to late night these shops are busy to provide finger licking Chicken Biryani, Kachchi Biryani, Morog Polao and many more dishes. The description of old Dhaka Biryani will incomplete if we do not move to Alu Bazar crossing, where 77 years ago Haji Mohammad Hossain started his road side biryani business.
Now a days, it known as Haji Biryani. At the same place Bismillah Kebab Ghar is famous for its kebab and Porota. We can finish our journey by taking Nanna Biryani at Becharam Dewry not very far from Alu Bazaar crossing.

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