Rahul Singh :
I am in Goa, the most enchanting State in the union of India, though Malayalis – who belong to the enticing south Indian State of Kerala – would contest that claim. And December 19 is an important date for Goa. On that day, 53 years ago, Indian troops marched into what had till then been Portuguese territory, and “liberated” it from Lisbon’s rule.
The army operation was little more than a formality, as the heavily outnumbered and outgunned token Portuguese force offered little resistance. There were just a few casualties and Goa became a part of India, by force of arms. The military takeover was strongly condemned outside India, and even in India it had plenty of critics. After all, India had won its independence in 1947 by non-violent means, thanks largely to the apostle of peace, Mahatma Gandhi. This had won India worldwide acclaim. Then, in the 1950s, Pondicherry, a French colonial enclave, had also peacefully been handed over to India by the then French prime minister, Pierre Mendes France.
Portugal was ruled by a military dictator, Salazar, unwilling to give up Portugal’s colonies. But it was only a matter of time before he would be replaced by another, more accommodating – and perhaps democratic – leader, who would, likewise, hand Goa back to New Delhi. But India then had an impatient defence minister, the irascible Krishna Menon, a favourite of Indian prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru. Menon was facing a tough parliamentary election in Bombay (as it was then called) and needed something that would galvanise the Bombay electorate in his favour. He thought he had found it in the Indian army operation against Goa (ironically, a year later, Indian troops would be humiliatingly defeated by the Chinese in the Himalayas and Menon forced to resign, but that is another story).
Let me now rewind to January 16, 1967, another significant date for Goa. That was the day the result of an “Opinion Poll” to decide the status of Goa within the Indian union was announced. A word of explanation is called for here. Goa had a strong affinity to its much larger neighbour, Maharashtra, and it was widely thought that in the “Opinion Poll” (a referendum, really), Goans would want to merge with that State. To everybody’s surprise Goans decided otherwise. They wanted to maintain their own identity. So, Goa was given the status of a “Union Territory” (it later became a State, with its own official language, Konkani).
It was a bold decision and I think largely explains the unique charm of this delightful land. I had then just joined the “Times of India” in Bombay and was sent to Goa to cover the “Opinion Poll”. I came with a close friend, the late Frank Simoes, who would become one of the best chroniclers of Goa. Though Goan himself, with relatives there, Frank was making his first visit to Goa (then, and even now, more Goans live outside Goa than in Goa itself). Both of us were smitten by the place and, later on, we bought properties there, Frank a grand seaside villa, and me a tiny studio apartment near the southern Colva beach (from where I am penning this piece).
What explains Goa’s charm?
First, outstanding scenery and some of the best and least crowded beaches in the world, with wonderfully clear, unpolluted waters. Second, the people, warm, friendly and totally laid back. I believe these are the two main reasons why a growing number of outsiders are attracted to Goa. There are other reasons as well, needless to say. Excellent and reasonably priced seafood. And the mix of Portuguese and Indian culture has also produced an enchanting blend.
Let me cite some of the negative aspects of Goa, which worry Goans anxious to preserve their beautiful land and their identity. One is the unplanned and completely haphazard construction all over the state. The greed of developers, hand in hand with corrupt politicians, is largely to blame.
One cannot argue against development and economic progress. And Goa has indeed developed and progressed since India took it over 53 years ago. No question about that. But with it has come growing corruption, venality, the menace of drugs and the destruction of much of the environment. The challenge Goans face is how to combine progress with the maintenance – and even enrichment – of their heritage and way of life. If truth be told, it is a challenge faced not just in Goa, but in much of the developing world.
(Rahul Singh is the former Editor of the Indian Express, Reader’s Digest and Khaleej Times)
