Extension of Accord -- Alliance tenure: BGMEA proposes single platform under DIFE

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Mohammed Badrul Ahsan :
Local garment makers and exporters have opposed the proposal of a top global apparel retailer, representing the Accord, to extend the tenure of the EU-based retailers’ platform by three more years.
Leaders of the country’s apparel sector at a recent meeting with the top Executive of the global retailer, H&M, instead proposed formation of a common platform with representatives from all the stakeholders to oversee the workplace safety issues after ending the tenure of Accord and Alliance in 2018.
The two Western platforms — Accord and Alliance — were formed to ensure workplace safety in Bangladesh’s apparel industry in the wake of the tragic accident especially after the Rana Plaza building collapse that killed more than 1100 workers and injured many.
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Md Siddiqur Rahman and Senior Advisor of H&M Karl Gunnar Fagerlin, among others, were present at the meeting held in the BGMEA headquarters in the city.
Quoting H&M officials, a meeting source said, “H&M has expressed that the company is in favour of extending the tenure of Accord for additional three years apprehending that the ongoing remediation might not be completed by 2018.”
But the BGMEA viewed that the remediation is a continuous process, he said, adding that new factories would be included in the list of Accord and Alliance.
Moreover, there are some interior changes in factories for expansion and other reasons, another BGMEA leader said.
He said that the proposed single platform would be consisted of representatives from labour rights groups, buyers, retailers and brands, Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments (DIFE), BGMEA and International Labour Organisation (ILO) to oversee the post-2018 workplace safety situation.
They (H&M officials) suggested the BGMEA to share the new proposal with the buyers and brands concerned before the next Steering Committee meeting of the Accord, he added.
The meeting was also informed that the BGMEA wanted to reduce the financial contribution of buyers, who are currently bearing the cost of factory inspection, meeting sources said.
The new factories would be set up meeting all the compliance requirements, they said, explaining that the cost of inspection on fire, electrical and structural integrity would be borne by an individual factory.
The H&M officials also wanted to know about the preparation of the apparel makers to get GSP plus benefit in the EU and to retain its competitiveness once the country graduates to mid-income country, said a BGMEA leader, who attended the meeting.  
Alliance country Director James F Moriarty in a recent meeting with the BGMEA leaders also discussed the same issues.
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